Comments on: Do It Yourself Pond Filter

By: Mark

Mark — Fri, 29 Jul 2011 16:17:44 +0000

Hi Jessie,
A 100 gallon container will work up to about 3,000 gallons. A 150 gallon container will cover about 4,500 gallons. You might find these at garden centers, feed stores, or you might search online for them. The return water can be routed through a hose if you like, some people just let the water come out and go down a water fall area, stream bed, etc. You could basically come up with just about anything.

The biologicals can be added directly to the pond and as they circulate through everything, they’ll prime the filter up. You’re right as well in that the filter doesn’t go in the pond but sits outside of it and it can be covered with a sheet of plywood or similar material and you could plants, rocks, etc over it to decorate.

Hope this helps a bit.

By: Jessie

Jessie — Tue, 05 Jul 2011 01:55:31 +0000

Our pond is about 3500 gal. Having viewed your excellent video I am wondering which size container we will need and where to purchase one. I checked online and found nothing over 95 gal. Also, how do get the return water back in the pond without a return hose from the flange? Another thing mention somewhere is a stock container, I think, what is this and where does one find this?
After hooking up the filter when and where do you put the biological chemicals? This system does not go in the pond I am assuming but what do you use to cover the system?

By: Mark

Mark — Wed, 15 Sep 2010 16:19:03 +0000

Hi Guhru,
You make a very good point about fertilizing desirable plants.

Normally I think if this is done in pots, you would have less of an influence but there still could be some seepage of the nutrients I suppose.

Overall though my thinking would be that as long as this is not overdone, the plants themselves would probably use up most of the nutrients before the algae would have a chance to do so.

I commend you for thinking and looking for root issues though…this will help you effectively combat an algae problem more than anything else.

Mark

By: garden guhru

garden guhru — Mon, 13 Sep 2010 15:16:33 +0000

I too am using a biofilter for my 3 ponds. I
have an algae problem but from what I have read
i seem to be on target for my algae growth. The thing I never hear mention of is whether the algae problem is being exacerbated by the use of the fertilizer tablets in the water lilies. If my pond is producing too much algae, do I need to use fertilizer to get the desired lily blooms I am looking for? If that is the case I will gladly curtail the use of the fertilizer tablets. My test strips show that I am in normal range for all testing. But I still can’t see my fish.

By: Mark

Mark — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 20:36:39 +0000

Hi Mimi,
You can add bacteria to the pond at any time really, which is the way you prime this filter. The regular use of beneficial bacteria will help keep the pond cleaner overall…and prime the filter…all good stuff.

Something like our small pond 2500 system would work well for this as would any good bacteria product.

Take care!

By: Mimi

Mimi — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 19:04:09 +0000

Hello Mark.

Thank you so much for this upload. I have been scouring websites for diagrams, tutorials or just anything that could explain how to make a bio-filter without being too obtuse in terminology or lacking explanations as to why this feature is important over another. Again. Thank you!!

This video is helping me plan out the bio-filter I am using for my red-ear sliders even. I am planning to make an indoor pond for them with a 55-120gal tank. (55 for now as they’re quite small.)

I did have a question about priming the pond. During this stage are we not supposed to have creatures in the water or is this time period ok? My turtles are messy creatures and 1-2 months is a long time to wait for the system to clean it’s self. Is it better to have that process pass and then add the amphibious creatures?

Thanks again.

By: Mark

Mark — Tue, 02 Jun 2009 21:57:10 +0000

Hi Eric

I would use the coarse grade pads as those have a little bit bigger cavities to hold the bacteria. I think your idea is worth a try in a mixture if you like and worth experimentation. Please post your findings if you do this and we’ll add it to the commentary which might help others down the road.

Thanks very much!

By: Eric

Eric — Fri, 29 May 2009 22:53:49 +0000

You recommend using scrubber pads for filter media in the skippy filters, but you did not indicate whether you use the fine medium or coarse grade. Which do you use? If I were to implement scrubber pads in a 55 gal barrel filter, does it make sense to use fine scrubbers on the bottom of the stack for mechanical filtration and follow with e.g. medium scrubber pads?

Thanks

By: Mark

Mark — Sat, 21 Mar 2009 14:26:15 +0000

Hi Mary,
It probably could. Much I think would depend on how fast the flow through is in the pond. If, for the most part, the water remains in the pond body for some time, then the filter might be of benefit.

Of course the filter is part of a system that involves a pump which drives the water into the filter system. The output from the filter is just like an overflow pipe, which directs water back into the pond.

One thing you might want to try first is simply some bacteria supplementation in the pond body itself. If there are enough areas in the pond for bacteria to set up some colonies, then you may not need the filter system. If you have some algae issues, it might be worth some experimentation to see.

By: mary

mary — Thu, 19 Mar 2009 22:20:03 +0000

We have a 2000 gal. capacity natural pond that is spring fed. There is no liner. There are bolders on the bottom. The water is constantly flowing in from the spring and the overflow goes out a pipe in the pond. Will this system work for us? Thanks, Mary